Friday, July 31, 2009

The Swiss Alps


There’s a reason why we use Switzerland in analogy when we need to describe the ‘beauty’ of a place. Every bit of that reason is in its full bloom in summer time. The air, the rain, the flowers, the outdoors, the people – it is magical. If heaven is even remotely like that, I could change my mind to work towards a place in it.

It is said Switzerland is neutral. They don’t take sides. Damn right they don’t! Coz’ they are too busy enjoying life, doing things, having fun. To sit around and judge is a waste of time. Time that can be spent in air, water, on bikes, in trains, hiking, drinking and watching God’s green earth in its splendor.

I have to say that cadence of life changes to an unusual rhythm under Swiss Alps. I was in Interlaken for three days. And it was relaxing and yet never ever slow. People are fun, there are fun things to do and just so much to see.

Jungfrau railway station, the highest in Europe is 11,332 ft above sea level. Along with Eiger and Monch, Jungfrau makes for a stunning view of Alps. As luck has it, when I was up there, it was -4 degrees with zero visibility. But, I saw pictures and it is exquisite. Jungfrau peak is 13,642 ft (Mt. Everest is 29,029 ft), looks over Bernese Alps and is home to the largest glacier in Alps and all of Europe. On a clear day, it is something to experience – standing cozily in a tower looking over from top of Alps. There’s a cool ice-palace on top as well. It is quite an experience to see the waterfalls, rain, clouds and greenery and then ascend into snow peaked mountains through the clouds, passing through beautiful small towns. A train-conductor spoke as we got out in snow to change trains, “Welcome to Swiss Summer! If you were wondering, winters are colder.”

The best part of Interlaken is the plethora of outdoor activities. Most are not for the faint of heart but nearly all take you to the edge of adrenalin rush. Bungee jumping into lake from gondola, sky-diving over Alps, canyoning in waterfalls, canyon jumping in Eiger canyon, hang-gliding, hiking in snow – it’s all there. I tried tandem hand gliding which was fun for two reasons. One, I really felt like a bird, it was smooth and quiet and glider just hovers like an eagle. Two, it gives a great view of lakes, the peaks, the beautiful lush green city. Landing while almost flat on your belly is so much fun!

I also tried to scare myself out of my mind by canyon jumping. Now, bungee jumping is a nose dive fall and vertical bounce. Canyon jumping takes that to another level. With harness tied to your waist (not feet) and 360 ft free fall you jump into a canyon. The rope catches you and swings you across canyon, over gushing river at 120kmph. At one moment if felt like an out of body experience to look up and see huge canyon walls around and then the blue sky. The total sense of freedom washes over you. Jumping, jumping willingly into the canyon is hard. I needed a countdown but, it was so worth it. I’d do it again and again without thinking twice. The rush of adrenalin as you jump ‘1-2-3 and in air’ and free fall and then swing on the river – that feeling is nothing like I ever felt before. So, now I know a sure way to let go of fears - face fear head on and jump!

Interlaken has many hostels for backpackers and other tourists. To really explore the beauty, you have to do some outdoor stuff, even if it is a bike ride or a walk to top of waterfall. This place is too beautiful to sit inside. Oh and the chocolates! I don’t like chocolates but I like a lot of things with chocolate flavor. Have desserts when in Switzerland. Taste them, feel them dissolve in your mouth and melt your heart. Pictures don’t do justice to this place. It is the air that you have to feel on you face to feel it. And then you’ll never forget that feeling, feeling of almost being in heaven!






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Thursday, July 30, 2009

Around the half world in 8 days...and lots of $$


I had always thought that Europe is a different world - rich in culture, literature and oozing with historic trivia. And I was right. It is a different world, with all that and more. I would add though, that exploring it is a one costly affair. And oh! So worth it.

My July 2009 trip to three countries and cities across Europe was very exciting and the only exhausting part was the journey back. I didn’t want to leave Swiss Alps. France, Italy and Switzerland were on the agenda. Trains, trams, elevators, stairs, 1-flight (other than to and fro), boats, gondola, hang-gliders, ropes and harness – all means of transport and pure entertainment.

My journey to Paris was marked with bad in-flight food and some very entertaining stuff. The first was nature’s amazing thunderstorm and lightning display that I saw out of the plane window. It went on for quite some time and like nothing I have seen before. The horizon lit up time and again with lightning bolts. Then there was this Chihuahua travelling with a lady across the aisle. I was so impressed with the little thing for making no noise and so worried for his lack of …walk! I wondered where and how it pooped, if it was drugged and what it ate and what it thought of the trip. And the lady wasn’t alone; she had two kids traveling with her. Amazing! I hope everyone, especially the dog, enjoyed Europe whether it was visiting or returning home. And then, there was this fight on the street of Paris. As I stepped out of a metro station I saw this chaos and what liked a fist fight. Before I could get too scared or think about being in a stampede, six cop cars came in and rounded up the ring leaders. I had never felt safer.

Train journeys were my favorite. Gondola was overrated and canyon jumping harness by far the most fun. I saw more paintings, sculptures and art-pieces in eight days than my entire life. I saw nature at its best, art at its peak and Bellini at its zenith. I wouldn’t say it was relaxing, I did plan it to be but it was definitely an eye opener.

There’s so much to see, so much to know of how things changed over time and how human nature is so consistent. Rich led sumptuous lives whereas poor made ends meet and the bourgeoisie were in the ever-hopeful, never-ending rat race. Things haven’t changed much, have they?

I met a group (mother and two daughters in perhaps late teens) at Moulin Rouge sitting in front seats. They were traveling, like they did every summer, all over Europe. They were from middle east and visibly well-off. I was so moved to see a mother bring her daughters (introduce them) in to experience a cabaret. To help them seek art like helping them find candy, no matter what it is wrapped in. And then I saw this amazing contradiction which took me by surprise and forced me to mull it over. As scantily clad men and women performed at arm’s distance, the mother was going through her prayers, chanting through her beads. Was I looking at religion becoming a habit? Is belief stronger when bound by rules? She wouldn’t let go of her ‘ritual’ (a ritual I am not sure was spiritual given the venue) and yet she would step out and chaperon her daughters to a liberal art. I don’t judge but I was fascinated. Humans are so complicated, it fills me with pride and confusion and things I can’t even identify.

Everyone I met had their unique story. Their reason for where they were. And somehow, they converged for a ride, an hour of sight-seeing, at a same place. People you meet have such different lives and stories and yet their life for a moment entwines with yours. It is true – there’s more to see than can ever be seen, more to find than can ever be found. And add to that people, and everything changes to another unknown, unpredictable dimension. The trip intensified my hunger to see more places, search for differences, similarities and just stories. I don’t know if it is because it reinforces in me that I need to live while I am alive or because it humbles me by showcasing the vastness of world and life. But, it stirs something inside. The need to know more, to know I am not alone and as much as my life might seem too big sometimes, I am a minuscule part of the bigger picture.





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Monday, July 27, 2009

On the banks of Seine...

The city of Paris is full of gems, life and street vendors selling crepes! There’s so much to see and do that you can spend days without a minute to spare. Yes – there’s Eiffel tower and yes there’s Louvre but my favorite thing in Paris, rather things are Mont Matre and Notre Dame.

The metro, the trams make travel in the city very simple and quiet affordable. You can be at any place within the city in a matter of minutes. The magnificent Eiffel tower is a monument to see, more like a thing to see at night! During summer, sunset is late and so the best time to be around and/or on the tower is around 8:30 or 9pm. Running up the stairs (half-way) is a much better way to experience the tower. Each bend has some trivia of the structure. Paris looks amazing from the top. The city with the river, the grounds, and the white-roofs looks dense and intense. Like a lot of stuff packed into a small place, the city oozes life. The best part for me was actually laying in the park and watching the top of the hour 5 min light show on the tower. It is quite a sight to sprawl on the cool grass and watch the 1,063 ft tall structure above you light up in shimmering glow.

The Champs-Elysees (Shaun-z-ley-zees) is beautiful. The wide open road leading to the beautiful Arc de triumph is a great place to have lunch and do window shopping! Everything from a Ferrari to an ice-crème is available.

Louvre is perhaps Mecca for those into art. And it is not just the Mona Lisa, it is the huge painting and sculpture collection that stretches across 4 wings. To top it all there’s the palace outside and stunning square with famous Louvre triangles. Château de Versailles is another place to confirm any doubts you might have of Paris’s historic value. The opulent mirror room, gardens and fountains are just magnificent. The scale and scope, more than anything else, takes your breath away.

And now to things I loved! Notre Dame is an exquisite church. I didn’t even get to go to its top (closes at 5 pm) and yet I am mesmerized by what I saw. The eyes have to adjust to the darkness and ears to quiet-ness as you enter the main church. In all directions you see stunning glass work. Light filters in through blue and greens and makes the church look like a different world. I absolutely fell in love with each glass piece and the way it glowed in the filtered light from outside. I don’t know if my spirit moved and soul stirred, but my senses definitely were in a drive.

And then there’s parrtyy! Mont Matre, the humble and underrated gem of Paris is just the place to party. The white-domed Basilica of the Sacré Cœur in the fore front covers an absolutely fantastic array of artists and restaurants in the back. The street around the main square (at the back of Mont Matre) is surrounded by artists showing their work, selling their pieces and engaged in live sketching. In the middle are the patio restaurants and bars. The place has electric energy. And then as you walk to the front of church, the steps are filled with bevy of people just sitting, singing, admiring random performances and enjoying the setting sun over the city. The church is up on a hill (130 m) and gives a perfect view of the city, perfect entrance through old village and perfect experience of party in open with strangers! The best kind!

Oh and then there is Moulin Rouge! The can-can performance and the costumes and the thrill of being in front row, all came together in form of just an amazing experience of music, dance and show-woman-ship. For anyone who loves live performance, Moulin Rouge is one of its kinds.

Paris, a city where art lurks and thrives at every corner – music, painting, literature, food, architecture. Musicians play in metro tunnels, on trains, on street corners. The scale and preservation of history and art is admirable. You can walk on banks of Seine, climb the tower and the hill, walk your day off in palaces and museums, stuff yourself with yummy crepes and there’ll be still something left for the next time. That is Paris. The city just has so much to show off; it holds your daze and persuades you to fall in love with it. Everyone can find something to love in Paris.






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Sunday, July 26, 2009

Venize


City of bridges, city of water, city of masks! Venice is the most amazing man-made city. 118 islands over Venetian lagoon form this ever floating city. Water-taxi, water-bus and gondolas navigate these water ways. There are no buses, no cars, no cycles. You either walk or you take water-borne vehicle. Even the garbage is taken out on boats; the things are delivered within city on hand-cart! The city, being close to water is humid and hot but the first thing you notice around is the Grand Canal and on both sides of it the patio restaurants and the flowers, oh the flowers! Every nook of the city is filled with resplendent bunches.

Small lanes, bevy of visitors, amazing smell of food, ice-crème shop at every corner (pistachio my favorite), water canals at every bend and masks – is typical Venice. I think there are enough masks for everyone in the city a few times over. Don’t know what the city is asking its visitors to masquerade, but you can find any color, any style and any price on these masks. The streets, hotel-rooms, restaurants are tiny, the canals stink a tad, the Marco-polo (all roads lead to Marco-polo) square is littered with people all the time. The Basilica is beautiful on the outside and serene inside. The difference is literally night and day when you step from bright light and crowds into the dark and quiet interior. The square itself is amazingly roomy. With restaurants all around and basilica and tower in center – the pigeons, the musicians, the tourists, the vendors, the gondola salesmen, and the artists – everyone finds a place here.

I have to say the gondola ride (in my opinion) is over-rated. It is short and in small canals (which stink due to stagnant water) with a few minutes in the Grand Canal and through historic buildings of Casablanca, old market, jail and first Venetian bridge. And there’s no traditional singing by fellas. Not even humming, sometimes not even talking!

Bellini was invented in Venice and historic Harry’s bar offers some delicious food, lots of choice in Bellini and a fine view to go with it. The square is the place to be at night with musicians at every corner. The hour of the night is signaled by bells on basilica by metal figurines. The streets at night are less crowded and very safe. The edge of square becomes calm and as gondolas park for the day, looking through to the islands and listening to gentle water washing on steps is very soothing.

I also walked to the other end of the main island and watched the beautiful city from across the main channel. A looming statue of a boy with a frog in his hand is quiet amusing. Venice is a beautiful city, a unique place. I can’t imagine living there - imagine grocery shopping. And that’s the reason the city is so touristy! All you see are hotels, shops, restaurants and gondolas. It has had issues with flooding and constant danger of sinking, but for what it is and how it is; it is a place you have to see for yourself to believe it exists.



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