Escape to Half Dome...















I had never walked 12 hrs. in a day before. Never had I walked for so long on such a tough terrain. And my verdict – It was well worth it.

This is my first blog. YaY, I guess. I am a blogger now.

I wasn’t really waiting for a big achievement for the debut. But, why not start the blog with something interesting. That’s right, I’ve done my research. I’ve read that blog-readers (that’ll be you) like to read interesting stories and they like commitment. I am going to have issues with that. (Grin)

So, here’s my little story of half dome. I am not a big hiker. I am just outdoorsy. I enjoyed a lot of biking this summer. It occurred to me that I should further challenge myself and do something completely outrageous. And, I walked. That’s right (again), I aim high.

My intention with this blog is (well this particular one at least) not to provide information and commentary on hiking or half dome. There are plenty of sites that will tell you about how much of what to take, what route to follow, what clothes to wear and what food to take. I am just sharing my experience but I will tell whoever is thinking about doing it, to do it! (Nikeesq.)

My journey started on a comfortable chair with a PC. It all started with research and it was downhill from there. I read about when cables go up, when is the hike crowded, which trails are easier, which are shorter, how much water to take, what amount of time, what type of clothes. I think I read all blogs on half dome (Shout out to thank everyone for putting up so much useful information). Everyone should read a little before they start climbing or be prepared to feel some pain like a fellow hiker did who I heard complain to his friend, “You didn’t tell me it would be this steep!” Oops!

Let me explain the process in brief.
Get up early, early enough to give yourselves 10-12 hours of walking.
Almost 17 miles to cover with back-pack that is packed with water, food and other safety stuff.
Last 0.5 miles of rock-slab steep steps and last 400 feet of 45 degree climb with the help of cables.
Walk in the park? Not quite.

This was a three day plan. Saturday was the drive-to-Yosemite day with focused task at hand. Yosemite National Park (pronounced yo-SEM-it-ee) is located in east central california, United States. The park covers an area of 761,266 acres or 1,189 square miles and is visited by over 3.5 million people each year (my PSA on park). A 4 hour drive was nice and uneventful on a mid-September day with temperature in mid-80s. The residence of choice was a tent in curry village that can be easily rented at this time of year. Hot showers and clean bathrooms are near-by. To warm up, I highly recommend a short hike (~1 hour) to a nearby lower (and/or Upper) Yosemite falls. My schedule was very regimented - eat, pack the bag and will myself to sleep. It was a tad noisy for a while and bitterly cold later at night, but managed bouts of sleep.

Sunday, September 21st, before the break of dawn the alarm pierced the silence of night. It took some time to fight the temptation of giving in and stealing 10 minutes of sleep. But, after shower and final packing I was waiting for the shuttle to Happy Isles at 7am sharp. Half Dome loomed above curry village, bathed and washed in morning sun. It was hard to believe that this tall monster would need 12 hours to be tamed.

The shuttle was full of hikers. Only hikers get up at dawn in Yosemite. And photographers. And maybe people who work there. And shuttle-drivers. Ok, so lot of people. A 5-minute bus ride takes you to a rather quaint hike-mouth. The instruction about bears, bob-cats and trees is rather comforting, saying there’s life where you are headed. The Merced river tributary is dull as this is the drought year and end of summer. It snakes along the hike for the first ½ hour.

The first bridge which showcases the Vernal falls took around 45 mins to get to. A rest-room and water-fountain makes it a good spot for hikers to take a moment and gaze at the grandeur of Yosemite as sun starts to filter into gauges and ridge lines, gently waking up the valley. The air was fresh and crisp. This is also the first place where the first layers of clothing start to shed. From here on it gets steeper and rockier and it is here that trail bifurcates into a shorter, steeper and steps-laden trail (Mist-trail) vs. a longer but easier terrain trail (John Muir). As the falls are anemic and the start of the day is pretty fresh, Mist trail is not a bad choice.

Another hour and you get to top of Vernal falls. It is a tough climb but the most amazing part is the change of scenery. As you climb, the trees, ridges, the bridge you crossed minutes back start to get smaller and smaller. It is amazing how a tree that seemed endlessly tall, dwarfs with few steps in few minutes. The top of the falls are spectacular. For a moment you forget half dome and enjoy the glory of a short victory. Pictures, moment-absorbing minutes should be enjoyed coz’ on the way back things look different to tired eyes under fading light of setting sun. The emerald pool at top of falls is shallow and calm.

Then starts the climb to Nevada falls, which is not too far and you never really get too close to the fall. The next noticeable point is where the two trials merge again and from here on its one trail to the top of Half Dome. This is also the point which has the last restroom for the next 5 miles (one way). After this, mother nature is all you got. As soon as trails merge, there is a short descend and then the only flat part of the trail. It gets a little frustrating here because it seems like you start to move away from the dome. The truth is, it is here that the trail start to curve around and you start your journey to the back of dome. Think of it as extra journey to be able to sneak up on the rock.

It is amazing that just when you think you have had it, the sign appears that says 2 miles to half dome and your mind says, you can do 2 miles. At the end of these grueling 2 miles (2 hrs.) you get first glimpse of the top of the dome and the famous cables. The view here is breathtaking. You can see the valley in all its glory. The dome looks intimidating because you have just spend half day walking and it is still far away and shooting up few hundred feet in air. A fellow hiker on her way down kindly suggests "You are almost there". As in you are almost there to the final ascend.

The final ascend includes 20-30 minutes of climb on grey, rock slabs called ‘the stairs from hell’. In my opinion, they are not stairs. They are rock slabs - high and hard and they are from hell alright. They are very steep and very narrow. You have to stop to give way to someone who is descending. YOu would think something that takes so much work should lead to heaven. After a few steps, you need to shut off your mind and stop thinking how far and how much. Just climb. One step after other. There are parts where there are no slabs, only rock to climb on. Unlike most of the trial that has been shaded with tree linings, there are no trees here, no patch of green. This is hard grey rock that tests you in every way possible.

And then just as you get to final step you see the flat and you are there, at the top of the rock that leads to cables. Let me explain here, the feeling. It is not a silent, calm place, the serene top like place you envision. The place is full of people. This is the place where you'd see more people than you'd see on trail. It is a weird feeling. You reach the top and it is festered with people. People on their way up, people on their way down, people napping, people all over.

You breathe hard as air gets thin but you breathe a sigh of relief. The body is tired and yet pumping with adrenalin. 5.5 hrs and there’s 400 ft to go on cables propped up to deal with 45 degree rock straight up. "Here we go".

Ok, here’s the thing. I didn’t go up the cables. Not all the way at least. Now, here’s the story behind it. I didn’t chicken out before even trying. I put on my gloves and started climbing. The rock was steep…actually, very steep. There were people behind me eager to go up and people on their way down using same cables. My bag pack was heavy, there was too much traffic and I was thinking of how will I get down before I even got up. So, a quarter of the way, I decided to turn. That very point, for this hike, was my perosnal Half Dome. It took me a moment to decide but I was very conscious to not let fear color my decision. I was tired, wanted to rest a bit and I knew this would get harder even if only for about 10 minutes. So, I turned back. I turned back but I didn’t return empty-handed. I learnt.

Don’t take your bag-packs on cables. Take few minutes to rest and eat and hydrate. Stop and start, stop and start, don’t think and don’t wait too much for those descending.

The way back was nearly as tough and took more concentration. One thing about this hike: things, terrain look so different on your way down. Nothing seems familiar. On your way up what clearly looked like steps now look like big, steep rocks. Each step was calculated and took work. The last 1 mile was really, really tough for me. I just wanted to stop and call someone for help. A part of it was the big stairs. Once your feet get use to stairs, simple trail seems very hard. My legs weren’t hurting but my body was screaming with exhaustion.
I can’t quite describe the relief I felt when I saw shuttle head-lights from the trial head. Few more feet and that’s it. The moment I saw that, I thought I could walk for another 30 minutes. Maybe not.

12 hrs. of walking and climbing, 4 liters of water, 3 nature calls behind trees (very liberating), around 50 pictures. All in a day's work.

The bath, the pizza, the bed - that is what followed. It was hard to fall asleep, partly due to exhaustion, partly due to surroundings but mostly due to the amazing sense of achievement.
The next day on the way back, Half Dome looked different. I had more respect for it, I knew it better.

There’s something to be said for human grit and determination. We see something and we find out more about it until we know it well. This was my fifth trip to Yosemite and each time I saw Half Dome it was with a jaw-dropping awe. This time there was a sense of intimacy as I left the park. I saw the rock and then I found my way up to the rock and live to tell it.
I didn’t feel I didn’t complete the journey by not making my way up the last 300 feet. I feel no regret for what I didn’t do because what I did was pretty amazing. At no moment, did I think I wouldn’t do it again. I would probably climb the cables the next time.

The famous cables.